Without sampling from Soul, Funk, Jazz, Reggae and Rock music, there is no 90s Golden age of Hip Hop legacies. Sampling is part of the beauty of the hip hop music. 30% of the biggest hit of Hip Hop songs still contained sample now days.⠀

“Impeach the President” by The Honey Drippers is one of the most samples songs. Musician sampled this drum breaks and vocal over 800 times.⠀

Classic hip hop song “La Di Da Di” by Doug E. Fresh and Slick Rick has sampled or interpolated by over 1000 songs.⠀
ラッパーのダギーフレッシュ & スリック・リック、ヒップホップ鉄板の名曲 "ラディラディ”は音楽のジャンル問わず1000回もサンプリングされている。

Now my tern to use this technique.⠀


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Modern computer was inspired by the Jacquard fabrics

A little intro of jacquard fabric which makes it more special than other fabrics. The most unique and rich part of the jacquard fabric is that it has three-dimensional bump textile which makes it divine and elegant. ⠀


More importantly, the Jacquard fabric is a textured fabric that has complex patterns woven, rather than printed or embroidered on top. It is an extremely time-consuming process to make. There are limited facilities in the world and the process is labor-intensive and the production is very low. Accordingly, this fabric is more expensive than typical woven fabrics, probably 2 to 3 times more. ⠀

プリントまたは刺繍されているのではなく、複雑な模様を直接編み込んでいる生地です。限られた織物工場しかなく、生産するのに手間のかかる生地でもあります。そして生産量も低い。 なので通常の生地より約2倍高く売られております。

In 1804, French inventor from weaving family, Joseph Marie Jacquard invented an important textile "Jacquard" which kickstarted the automation of the weaving industry. The Jacquard loom was the first programmable machine to the punched cards. Later, went on to influence world first computer programmer Charles Babbage. So don`t forget Jacquard fabric is considered an important step towards modern computers which you are looking at now. ⠀



So here I am, introducing my 2020 Spring/Summer collections which Expansion NY just released the Jacquard fabric shirts bucket hats and shorts. I spend so many hours and days to find and handpick this Jacquard geometric pattern. In my head, I could imagine wearing this matching Jacquard fabric shirts and shorts relaxing in a Caribbean island holding a pina colada cocktail and smoking a Cuban cigar.⠀


Buy Jacquard collection


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My unique pleated pants narrative.

In 1920, Great Britain students at Oxford University made a fashion statement by wearing extra-wide legged pants which later known as "Oxford Bags". 

The trend later spread across the US Ivy League schools.

I first notice pleated pants from Versace in the 80s. Actor Richard Gere was wearing it in movies and Miami vice actors were also wearing pleated pants in TV series. I think it all started by Italian fashion designer Gianni Versace who made a transformation of the pleated pants and made it as fashion trends in the 80s. 

In 2020, Pleated Pants are making a comeback. I started my career fashion business in the early 90s, so I had difficulty understanding and absorbing the 80s trend. So, to make a 2020 fashion statement, I've made an Expansion version of Pleated Pants. 


I changed the concept of the Pleated Pants to sporty wear. I transformed the belt loop by replacing it with an adjustable drawstring and elastic waistband to make it easy to wear. I use a very smooth mid-weight stretch poly-cotton fabric which makes it lighter and comfortable. Of course, I kept the loose fit style as history continues. It is a bit hard compared to typical pleated pants, but this is my unique pleated pants narrative.








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NY 90`s NY street fashion [UJIMA]

I see lots of Instagrammer and YouTuber postings and commenting about 90`s NY street fashion. But, there are lots of known street brands that were not mentioned. Brands such as PNB nation, Elements of style, School of Hard knocks, Triple 5 Soul, SSUR, Ten Deep, Hi Post, Head Hunter, Ziran, Writer`s Bench, Subware, Mic Check, UJIMA and more.
I call it the "First NY generation of Street brands", excluding skateboard brands.

Today, I am pleased to introduce my new collaboration with UJIMA.
I first noticed the UJIMA brand while shopping at the "Bobitos footwork" store located on the 9th street in LES of Manhattan during the late '90s. This brand was a little different from the others. UJIMA Green ringer T-shirts and crew neck sweatshirts were iconic and different back then. I believe the crew neck was made in some prison in the US. Graphics were simple but have some edge to it. UJIMA's promotion was pretty magnificent. HIP HOP artists such as Common, OC, The Beatnuts, The Roots, INI, and other artists were wearing this brand at that time.

Fast forward, 20 some years later, UJIMA was reborn in Harajuku, Tokyo Japan. This collaboration is sold exclusively at the Surku cafe


#NYstreetBrandHistory #NYStreetBrands #mensfashion #urbanfashion

最近若いインスタグラマーやユーチューバーが90年代のストリートファッションを取り上げるのを良く見かけます。何故か語られない真実が沢山ある中、取り上げなくては行けないブランドはごっそりあります。PNB nation, Elements of style, School of Hard knocks, Triple 5 Soul, SSUR, Ten Deep, Hi Post, Head Hunter, Ziran, Writer`s Bench, Subware, Mic Check, UJIMA などなど、面白いブランドは沢山ありました。スケート・ブランドは入れてません。
多分一番最初にUJIMAに遭遇したのは90年代中期 ニューヨークのロウアー・イースト・サイドにあったセレクトショップ "ボビートズ・フットワーク" だったと思います。
当時、沢山のブランドの中、UJIMAは少し違っていた思い出があります。緑のリンガーTとクルーネックスウェットシャツはかなりインパクトがありました。グラフィックもシンプルかつエッジが入ったデザインが多かったです。確かクルーネックスウェットシャツはアメリカの何処かの刑務所で作られていたと思います。UJIMAのプロモーションはど真ん中でラッパーのCommon, OC, The Beatnuts, The Roots, INIなどなど色んなアーティストが着ていました。

20年ちょっと経ち、アップデートされ、原宿のセレクトショップ Surku cafe さんにてUJIMA x エクスパンションとのコラボとして現在発売中です。


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Believe or not, I'd made more than 40 to 50 masks for the past 2 weeks. I think I'm getting better at sawing and definitely more creative thanks to quarantine boredom. 
I realize that I still had some woolen mill fabric left from 2012. This fabric was used for collaboration with Post Overalls. I know this is not the season for wool mask but what a heck. I'll probably be the first guy making a 3D wool mask. This is not for sale, just for fun.
I still have more masks on my website. 
Need a mask? We got you covered!!! Please visit and let's help and support the health care workers. 
この2週間で4~50はマスク作っています。1つ制作するのに1時間かかります。確実に上手くなってきています。笑 多少コロナ疲れで飽きて来ます、と同時にクリエーティブになります。
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